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Growing up in suburban Connecticut, the offspring of two ardent
restaurant-goers, I passed much of my childhood in the backseat
of a car heading to Manhattan in pursuit of food.
The excursions I most enjoyed were to Little
Italy. Angelo’s, Grotta Azzurra, Luna – these were our spots,
and I spent many lunches and dinners happily gorging myself at
all three restaurants. Along with the garlic, there was always a
whiff of menace in the air; the mafia was still a heavy presence
in Little Italy, and for all we knew, the dapper gents at the
adjoining table might have been made men.
In time, we moved on from Manhattan (“too
yuppified,” as my father put it) and began travelling to other
boroughs to get our Italian fix. For a couple of years, we were
regulars at Gargiulo’s, a cavernous restaurant in Coney Island.
When I was in my late teens, my father was introduced to a homey
restaurant on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx called Dominick’s. It
remains a favourite. So, too, does Tommaso in the Dyker Heights
section of Brooklyn, between Bay Ridge and Bensonhurst.
Tommaso
is my contribution to our family’s long-running love affair with
Italian cuisine; my wife and I were first taken there by a
friend in 2001, and it has been a family gathering place ever
since. The food is generally terrific, but that’s only part of
the attraction. The other draw is Tommaso himself – Tom Verdillo,
the restaurant’s Brooklyn-born, opera-singing chef and owner.
With a thick accent that betrays his local roots, the
67-year-old Verdillo has an interest in food that extends far
beyond Italian cuisine and the confines of his Brooklyn
neighbourhood. At the same time, he and his restaurant are a
delicious throwback to a slice of New York life that has all but
disappeared.
Verdillo, the youngest of 10 children, originally hoped to be an
opera singer, and even auditioned for the Manhattan School of
Music. But his family could not afford the tuition costs, and he
became a cook instead. He worked as a caterer, and even did a
stint as an airline chef at John F. Kennedy Airport, before
opening Tommaso in 1974. It was a time when Dyker Heights, Bay
Ridge and Bensonhurst were still heavily Italian, and, as food
goes, it was a self-contained community. Meat, fish, bread,
cheese – for restaurateurs, all of these things were just around
the corner. “Everything was here,” says Verdillo.
Like many successful restaurateurs, Verdillo caught an early
break. Not long after he opened Tommaso, the Gambino crime
family opened a “social club” right next door. Legendary mafia
don Paul Castellano, the head of the Gambinos, soon became a
Tommaso regular, along with his lieutenants. The mobsters not
only patronised Tommaso; they were among its suppliers,
furnishing Verdillo with the finest steaks, veal chops, and
other provisions. He, in turn, provided them with classic
southern Italian fare, and also a first-rate wine list.
Castellano and company had a yen for great wines – top Barolos
and the like – and Verdillo assembled one of New York’s most
renowned cellars, filled with acclaimed offerings not just from
Italy, but also from France and the US, many of them
attractively priced (wine critic Robert Parker became a Tommaso
regular, too).
Verdillo says Castellano was “like a big brother to me”. The
mafia boss would bring his family – his real family – to the
restaurant for holiday meals, and Verdillo catered many events
at his house on Staten Island. Castellano met a bloody end, but
not while eating at Tommaso; in 1985, he was gunned down outside
Sparks steak house in Manhattan on the orders of his rival John
Gotti.
Even as he was immersed in this very insular world, Verdillo
frequently travelled abroad, returning to Brooklyn toting new
ingredients and ideas. However, it is the staples on the menu
that keep drawing us back to Tommaso – the simple but fetching
spaghetti with a light tomato sauce, basil and fresh mozzarella,
the sauce made of tomatoes harvested from Verdillo’s sister’s
New Jersey garden; the sublime spaghetti carbonara; the rich,
soulful pasta e fagioli; the gargantuan grilled veal chop with
sautéed mushrooms and the most ethereal roasted potatoes I know.
In the evening, a few locals congregate in the small bar at the
front of the restaurant, while at the back, standing alongside
the piano, Verdillo will periodically belt out an aria to
entertain his guests. He knows that sentimentality is part of
what keeps customers coming through the door, and that is fine
by him. “People want to remember,” he says. “They want food that
reminds them of grandma’s Sunday dinner, and as long as they
want it, I’m going to keep giving it to them.”
Tommaso, 1464 86th Street,
Brooklyn, New York, +1 718 236 9883 www.tommasoinbrooklyn.com
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